{"id":4470,"date":"2020-06-12T12:11:06","date_gmt":"2020-06-12T18:11:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/midlifeglobetrotter.com\/?p=4470"},"modified":"2025-09-21T13:19:18","modified_gmt":"2025-09-21T19:19:18","slug":"charming-loire-valley-hotel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/midlifeglobetrotter.com\/charming-loire-valley-hotel\/","title":{"rendered":"A Charming Loire Valley Hotel Comes to Life"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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FRANCE<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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An 18th-century wheat mill gets a second life as a country inn and cooking school<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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In the French countryside near the historic town of Saumur is a charming Loire Valley hotel that epitomizes everything I adore about France. <\/span>Le Moulin Br\u00e9geon<\/a><\/span> celebrates history and embraces patina; the sheets are antique linen and the candlesticks glow with a perfect French luster. <\/span>Giant gears and grinding stones remain,\u00a0celebrating its history and origins as a water mill.\u00a0<\/p>

And like France, Le Moulin manages to be both indulgent and restrained. The decor and the food are embellished only to the extent necessary. The carrots are both perfect and simple; the best I’ve ever tasted. I have more to say about the carrots, but first let me finish an introduction to Le Moulin, where we stayed on a magical French holiday.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Le Moulin Bregeon is the epitome of French charm<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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An Abandoned Mill Returns to Life as a Loire Valley Hotel<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Le Moulin \u201cthe mill\u201d dates to the 18th century when the wheat grown by local farmers was brought here to be ground into flour by a water wheel and the river which runs beneath it. Recent renovations of parts of the property suggest its heritage dates to the 14th century and a former monastery. <\/span>In the 1970s, when industrialized wheat production replaced stone-ground flours, the mill was abandoned and fell into disrepair.<\/span><\/p>

It sat quietly for decades until Jonathan Robinson, an American artist who had settled in France, and Pascal M\u00e9rillou, a chef from Bordeaux, began searching for the perfect property to transform into a Loire Valley hotel. When they found Le Moulin, they saw an opportunity in the abandoned buildings and pastoral estate.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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French artisans restored the stone and woodwork of the abandoned 18th century building<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The goal was to restore the mill to what it once was, so local artisans were hired for the woodwork and stonework. After a year of intense construction, Bernard L\u00e9v\u00e9nez joined the team as the property manager, and Le Moulin opened to guests in 1999. Jonathan, Pascal and Bernard, along with an assortment of chickens, geese and goats, and a resident labrador retriever, have welcomed guests ever since.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

The two-story inn has five rooms, and one cottage set on the river. We stayed in <\/span>La Chambre de Fleur Blanche<\/a><\/span>, the White Flower Room. It’s on the second floor at the top of a narrow staircase.\u00a0 \u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The sitting area of \"The White Flower Room\" at Le Moulin Br\u00e9geon<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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La Chambre de Fleur Blanche<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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It might be the most perfect room I have ever stayed in. The sheets are antique linen and it has a pretty sitting area with French armchairs. The bathroom is stunning, with a beautiful tiled floor and an antique wood and marble vanity. Round windows look out on the gardens below.\u00a0 We were told that Barbra Streisand stayed in this room not long before us. (I can’t sing, so was pleased to know I finally shared something in common with her.) A part of the mill’s gear mechanism looks perfectly in place in the wood-beamed ceiling.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

My husband Sean and I had come directly to the Loire Valley after landing in Paris, so it was a long travel day. Despite a six-hour time change, we slept soundly through the first night,\u00a0 happily tucked between French sheets and lulled by the sounds of the river flowing beneath the inn.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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The antique vanity in the gorgeous ensuite bath of the Chambre de Fleur Blanche<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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In the morning we explored the pretty gardens, ideal for dining outdoors in warm weather. With the animals trotting about, Le Moulin had bubbled with pastoral charm.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

We had also come to Le Moulin to cook, so after breakfast, Bernard and Pascal had “une petite adventure” planned. Poulet au vin du Jura (chicken in mushroom and wine sauce) was on the menu that evening, and we needed to find some mushrooms. I asked if there was a market in the quaint town we had passed through on our way here, but they had another place in mind. We piled in a small car and drove a few kilometers through lush forest of pine, ash and oak, <\/span>once the hunting grounds of French royals and nobles<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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In Search of Le Cepe, France's Delicious Wild Mushroom<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Over 300 chateau remain in the Loire Valley and it is possible to visit over 100 of them. I’ve written about this region in: The Loire Valley and its Chateaux<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0 <\/span><\/span>We parked at the side of a country road and Bernard handed us large wicker baskets. Either we were hunting giant mushrooms or were going to be here for a while.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mushrooms are plentiful in the trees and forest floor in the Loire Valley<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We enjoyed walking in the dappled light of the forest and had a chance to chat with Bernard. He is from Brittany, the furthest west of the 13 regions of France, surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic ocean. Bernard’s mother had owned a restaurant where he spent much of his youth and developed a love for food and hospitality.\u00a0<\/span>Several of the specialties at Le Moulin are Bernard\u2019s family recipes and he also makes all of the delicious jams with local organic fruit. He was a charming and gracious host who nodded politely, when I spoke French and mixed up the verb tenses.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Bernard and I find Le Cepe, the wild mushroom we need for our dinner<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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I saw some beautiful mushrooms in the forest, but we were after a particular mushroom, Le Cepe, which is similar in shape and size to a porcini and one of the tastiest wild mushrooms, according to our hosts.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

It was early October, an ideal time to find them. Bernard instructed us to look for them on tree trunks, in particular on pine. It was thrilling to find my first cepe and I placed it carefully at the bottom of my basket. It was lovely walking in the forest, and I kept forgetting to look for mushrooms.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Preparing the tartes aux pommes Soizic, named after Bernard's godmother<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Cooking Class at Le Moulin<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We returned to the inn and convened in the kitchen. We helped do the prep for the chicken and wine dish which employed <\/span>the staples of French cooking: butter, shallots and garlic would provide the backdrop so the foraged mushrooms could be the star of the show.\u00a0<\/p>

Next Bernard taught us how to make a special dessert, <\/span>Tartes aux pommes Soizic, <\/span><\/i>named after his godmother. There were a few tricks to making this apple tart properly. The crust must be prepared quickly so it is crispy when baked. And the apples must be arranged in a beautiful pattern, because, well, because this is France.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Slicing zucchini to chef Pascal's exacting standards at Le Moulin Br\u00e9geon<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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What we didn\u2019t know that day in the kitchen, and I must make a point to tell Bernard\u00a0 (we are in touch on social media) is that the Tartes aux Pommes Soizic<\/em> was to become a part of our family tradition as well. I make it for dessert every Thanksgiving, although if I am rushed, I haphazardly fold the crust, rather than place it precisely in a scalloped dish and the apples are not always as perfectly arranged as Bernard’s.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

This seems like a good time to return to the subject of carrots, because Chef Pascal was also in the kitchen that day and I had some questions about the carrots he had prepared for our arrival dinner the previous evening.\u00a0 As we stood together chopping zucchini for the soup I saw my chance.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Secret to Pascal's Perfect Carrots<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Everything served at our arrival evening was divine: The Duck Confit with potatoes and green beans were sheer heaven. A simple green salad was extraordinary. <\/span>And all of it was enjoyed with a local sparkling wine of Saumur and the Cabernet Franc from the nearby vineyards of Chinon.\u00a0And yet, I was most astonished by the carrots\u00a0 which were\u00a0so delicious, it entirely changed my view of carrots. They were cooked to perfect tenderness with a sprinkle of fresh herbs atop, and had a taste so robust and well, carroty, it was as if these were the world\u2019s first carrots \u2014 the perfect specimen.\u00a0<\/p>

\u00a0<\/span>Pascal is also the gardener at Le Moulin, so all the vegetables are incredibly fresh. But I had had fresh carrots before. What made his carrots so delicious, I asked? He smiled and made a quick outward gesture with his hands: \u201csimple.\u201d The French \u201csimple,\u201d is pronounced differently (rhymes with \u201cpsalm\u201d) and I understood that he meant prepared with simplicity.\u00a0 \u201cAu beurre et \u00e0 l\u2019ail,\u201d he added, with butter and garlic. He made the hand gesture once more to emphasize the point – \u201csimple\u201d.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Chef Pascal M\u00e9rillou at Le Moulin Br\u00e9geon in the Loire Valley, France<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Hmm. <\/span>I needed more.<\/p>

How exactly are they cooked?\u00a0 They were simmered in water and butter until the water evaporated, he said, leaving them to caramelize in the remaining butter. Could it really be that simple and taste that incredible? I scribbled some notes and tucked them in with the other recipes. I thanked Pascal and went upstairs to get ready for dinner. I felt privy to a special culinary secret – I had the intel to create perfect French carrots.<\/p>

That night, Bernard and Pascal joined us for dinner. (Jonathan was not at Le Moulin when we visited.) The <\/span>Poulet au vin du Jura was<\/span> exceptional, the mushrooms added an incredible depth of flavour – well were worth the forest forage. It was special to enjoy Pascal\u2019s zucchini soup and Bernard\u2019s apple tart, having had a part in preparing them. <\/span>We drank more wine, ate more cheese and enjoyed another perfect evening in the candlelit dining room.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Dinner by candlelight at Le Moulin Bregeon, a charming Loire Valley hotel<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Exploring around the Loire Valley<\/a><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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When we weren\u2019t eating, or relaxing in the garden with the geese, we were out exploring. The town of Saumur is famous for its sparkling wines which are fermented in the nearby limestone caves. At the city center, on a hill overlooking the Loire River, is the Ch\u00e2teau de Saumur, one of the oldest of the Loire chateaux. Further afield, but within an hour\u2019s drive are some of the Loire\u2019s finest renaissance estates including: Ch\u00e2teau de Villandry<\/a>, Azay-le-Rideau, Ch\u00e2teau de Brissac and Ch\u00e2teau de Br\u00e9z\u00e9.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Le Moulin also has bicycles and Sean and I had a lovely cycling adventure through the countryside. We stopped in the local town of <\/span>Linieres Bouton where we visited the Ch\u00e2teau de Boissimon, a 16th-century chateau which is also a hotel.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

We continued through the village to a small church,\u00a0 \u00c9glises Saint-Martin-de-Vertou, a designated historic monument built in the 12th century.\u00a0 There was no one around but the doors were unlocked so we went inside. It was quiet and cool. It lacked the usual signs that parishioners came and went, no fresh flowers or hymn books neatly stacked. It felt forgotten.
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As our eyes adjusted to the dimly lit church we saw frescoes on its walls. They were worn in places.\u00a0 We later learned that for centuries, this small church hid a beautiful secret. Underneath a layer of lime that covered the plaster walls three frescoes waited to be discovered for almost 500 years. The oldest, \u201cChrist in Glory”, dating to the 13th century. In 1853 the parish priest discovered the works as he cleaned the walls. And in 1966 they were fully revealed and restored.\u00a0<\/p>

After a day of cycling and a memorable lunch at a French truck stop, complete with terrine and camembert, we returned to relax in the garden with the geese. It was our last night, so we were excused from any forest foraging or cooking. We drank sparkling wine from Saumur and listened to the sound of the river run under the old mill, as it always had.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Even the geese are charming at Le Moulin Br\u00e9geon<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We packed our bags and lingered over a final breakfast of sublime pastries, French butter and jam made in the kitchen just behind us. It was very difficult to leave Le Moulin, and I was thankful we were on our way to Paris for a few days. It might otherwise have been an embarrassing scene with me in begging to be hired on to carry Bernard’s mushroom foraging basket and peel Pascal’s carrots.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Once home, some great attempts were made to replicate Pascal\u2019s carrots. A tuft of green fronds were left at the top just as he had, they were cooked to tender and caramelized to golden. Fresh herbs were even scattered on top with a flourish that felt as French as we could manage.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

And they were very good, delicious even, but never the same.\u00a0I think some things just belong to a place. The things that I love most about France could never be the same anywhere else. They belong to France, and that\u2019s as it should be.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Subscribe<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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