{"id":816,"date":"2020-02-19T14:41:01","date_gmt":"2020-02-19T21:41:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/midlifeglobetrotter.com\/?p=816"},"modified":"2025-03-14T15:26:32","modified_gmt":"2025-03-14T21:26:32","slug":"umbria-agriturismo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/midlifeglobetrotter.com\/umbria-agriturismo\/","title":{"rendered":"An Umbria Agriturismo in the Green Heart of Italy"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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ITALY<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A magical setting in the Italian hills, away from the crowds of Tuscany<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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There may be affiliate links within this post which provide me with a commission, at no cost to you. This is a way to help me to provide valuable content. More information at: Privacy & Disclosure<\/a><\/span>.<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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High in the hills of central Italy pretty stone villas dot a landscape of olive trees and grapevines. These “Umbria Agriturismo” are centuries-old farms which also welcome guests, ideal for tourists who want a more intimate experience of Italy’s delicious food culture.\u00a0<\/p>

“Agriturismo” comes from the Italian words for agriculture and tourism, and the combining of the two. <\/span>As we drove up through Umbria’s\u00a0 green hills I admired villas that appeared to have been beautifully maintained for centuries. This was not necessarily the case. Many of these properties were abandoned in the 1950s and 1960s when small-scale farming became difficult and people moved to cities for work.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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History of the Agriturismo in Umbria<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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With an increase in tourism in the 1970s, the Italian government made “agriturismo” an official designation, and provided incentives for Italians to return to the countryside, to farming, and to restore the abandoned properties. The designation also enabled owners to supplement their income by hosting tourists.\u00a0 Agriturismo are found all over Italy, in particular Umbria, Tuscany and Puglia.\u00a0<\/p>

We had been to Italy previously but this was our first visit to Umbria. I had booked a stay at a small agriturismo called\u00a0Antica Olivai<\/span><\/a><\/span>a<\/span>,<\/span> a 17th-century farmhouse which was\u00a0 carefully restored by its owners, Marco and Daniela.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Why Consider Umbria? <\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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  • \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tFewer crowds and more affordable than nearby Tuscany <\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
  • \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tClose Proximity to Rome makes it a great add-on<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
  • \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tUmbria\u2019s compact size makes it easy to explore<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
  • \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDelicious cuisine connected to culinary traditions<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
  • \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/path><\/svg>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSome of Italy's best hilltop towns: Orvieto, Assisi, Spello, Todi <\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/li>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
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    Antica Olivaia, Umbria<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Antica Olivaia is located at the intersection of three of Italy\u2019s most beautiful regions\u2014Lazio, Tuscany, and Umbria. Umbria is known as the green heart of Italy because of its beautiful green hills; it is more forested than nearby Tuscany. I loved Tuscany, and we did consider returning, but Tuscany is much more crowded and typically more expensive. Plus, we wanted to try somewhere new and Umbria is quite close to Rome, where we were coming from.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    We arrived at Antica, met Daniela and Marco and\u00a0 ventured out to see the olive grove, accompanied by Miles, the resident dog.<\/p>

    Antica Olivaia (which translates to ancient olive grove) has approximately 700 olive trees spread out over four hectares, many of them more than a century old.<\/p>

    The olives were tiny and hard, little pebble-like clusters. It was June; they wouldn’t be harvested until late October. They would be cold-pressed nearby and the resulting extra virgin olive oil is considered among the best in the area and is <\/span>produced entirely without pesticides.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Miles escorts us on a walk through the olive grove<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Dinner al Fresco <\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Dinner is served al fresco (in the open air) at Antica Olivaia, with all the guests together at one long table. Daniela was setting the table as Marco finished preparing dinner. She told us about discovering the property after a challenging year-long search. It was partly restored but needed a lot of work she said. That didn’t deter them. The view was too perfect. They immediately gave up their jobs in Rome, moved to Umbria and began the restoration.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Daniela prepares the dining table for dinner al fresco, at Antica Olivaia, Umbria Agriturismo<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Antica Olivaia has six guest rooms and there was one other family staying on our first night. We gathered to enjoy a glass of Orvieto Classico before dinner. <\/span>The sun sank into the Umbrian hills, its golden light shining down the long wood table. Marco had set out bowls of olive oil. The benefit of staying at an agriturismo is the chance to sample what is grown on the farm; in this case olive oil. I was excited to try olive oil that came from the trees I could see from our table.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

    G<\/span>reen-gold puddles shimmered with the reflection of the setting sun, and awaited crusty bread.\u00a0<\/span>The children ran around the garden with Miles, and we sipped wine. The bread arrived and we called them to join us.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Tiny olives growing on an olive branch at Agriturismo Antica Olivaia <\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Olive Oil Tasting at our Umbria Agriturismo<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    I dipped a chunk of bread into the oil and popped the whole thing into my mouth. It was slightly peppery but somehow light as well. And very smooth\u2014none of the bitter aftertaste that some olive oils have<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span>Marco said that the flavor can change, depending on the harvest. It was the most delicious olive oil I had tasted and I asked him about purchasing some to take home. He looked hesitant and said he would check if he had enough left to sell. He couldn’t promise. <\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

    Dinner was a fixed four-course meal of regional specialties served with more wine: Orvieto Classico and Sangiovese. We were told that nothing we were eating had traveled more than one kilometer to reach our plates. It is another benefit of staying at an Umbria Agriturismo\u2014the food is outstanding and typically less expensive than at restaurants in Italy. A simple spaghetti was on offer for the kids.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Nate enjoys spaghetti \"al fresco\" at Antica Olivaia<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Local specialties in this region include Ombrichelli a thick spaghetti-like pasta, made with flour and water. It was cooked to a perfect point, where tender meets al dente, and served with local black truffles, porcini mushrooms, and salty pecorino.<\/span><\/p>

    Over dinner, we shared stories of our travels with the other family visiting from California. We spoke of our love for Italy and the places we had seen, on this trip and others.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Accommodation at an Umbria Agriturismo<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Agriturismi (yes, that’s the plural) can vary greatly in style and amenities. They can be very rustic and simple, such as a true farmhouse that will rent out a room. Or they can be luxurious villas and come with the amenities you would find at a fancy resort. Antica Olivaia was the perfect compromise between the two.\u00a0<\/p>

    The house which dates to the 1600s had retained its charm through several restorations\u2014it has beautiful tile floors and striking wood beams from the original farmhouse. The guest rooms were simple but very comfortable, and we appreciated that they did not have televisions.<\/p>

    It is nicely set up for families with children, or groups. There are two rooms that can accommodate four, with a double and two twins. Another two rooms can sleep three.\u00a0<\/p>

    We had a pretty balcony off of our room on the second floor. I went out to set my swimsuit to dry and glanced to the west. Rolling hills m vineyards and Cypress trees\u2014a quintessential Italian landscape. There’s really\u00a0 nothing quite like it.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    A balcony with a view of the Umbrian hills, at Agriturismo Antica Olivaia <\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Breakfast was served al fresco as well and brought the chance to try a specialty bread called Lumachelle, which resembles a snail and is made in the nearby town of Orvieto. Fruit and yogurt, tea, and coffee were also served, and Marco makes espresso or cappuccinos upon request.\u00a0<\/p>

    Antica Olivaia\u2019s swimming pool was a highlight for all of us. We had just come from Rome where the days were scorching hot in late June. The pool was bordered by enormous lavender bushes on one side, and alive with more honeybees than I had ever seen.<\/p>

    I positioned myself so I could watch our boys play “water frisbee” and enjoyed the view of the hills and Orvieto, the hill town which we planned to visit during our stay.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Under the Umbrian Sun - A Villa Beckons<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    We decided to explore a little bit and set out down the road we had driven in on. From so high on the hill we admired the medieval towns in the distance.<\/p>

    A breeze blew through the olive trees\u00a0 and I marveled to think how long they’d stood on this hill. Ahead to our right we spotted a villa, sitting quietly among the trees. As we got closer it was clear that no one lived here.\u00a0 The windows were boarded up and the mossy roof sagged. A\u00a0low building next to the farmhouse was covered in vines and beginning to crumble.\u00a0<\/span>And the view out over the Umbrian hills was sublime.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Under Italy's spell: dreaming of buying and restoring a villa in Umbria<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    We walked around the buildings wondering when anyone was last here. I also wondered if it was for sale. “We should buy this villa, and restore it,” I said. I think I just wanted to hear myself say something so obviously outrageous and yet… I was already imagining what it could become: Where I would enjoy my morning coffee, gazing out over the hills, where I would write, where we would eat lunch with a glass of Sangiovese. My husband, Sean laughed, but in a way that suggested maybe the idea wasn’t entirely outrageous. Was he was sharing my fantastical moment? That would be unusual; he is the practical one.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    I would have a cat at my Umbrian villa. And a dog of course<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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    Maybe we should buy this villa, and restore it<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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    We live and work in the U.S.; we have young-adult children and a dog. And we don’t speak Italian. Yet we gazed longingly at the decaying villa <\/span>in some sort of a “La Dolce Vita” trance.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

    I have found that Umbria, all of Italy really, is like that. It casts a spell on you, so that practical concerns are set aside. Like when a jug of house wine is set before you at lunch. It’s Italy – of course we drink wine with lunch. We stood a while enjoying the view over green hills crowned with ancient towns, the little farms dotted among them. Sean and I exchanged a glance and laughed; we were imagining <\/span>buying a crumbling villa, the restoration of which would surely mean considerable wine drinking.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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    Umbria - What to See and Do<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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